For this installation, you need a lift or a jack and jack stands, 12 ratchet, 38 ratchet, 14 ratchet, 6 38 extension, 1. T6 hex bit, 38 swivel, 93. The Motor Manual Guy. Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the Jeep Cherokee and Comanche Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts. U joint press, and safety glasses. The first step to start the installation of our 5 speed is to remove the original components. Were going to start by pulling the shifter, then well move under the car and work on the transmission. Well pull up to remove our metal plate. The boots going to be held to your transmission tunnel by four 71. The best way to do this is to push the transmission forward, using an open end of a ratcheting wrench, and come in from the side. Were going to unscrew our shift ball and remove our shift boot. Were going to remove these two bolts here to remove our shift lever. Once our shift arm is removed, were ready to start work under the car. Now that were underneath our car, weve got a few obstacles were going to run into. Being this car is 4. In the case of our car, its got some old long tube headers on it. Were pretty sure theyre going to clear the T5 bell housing, but were not going to know until we get it up into place. The exhaust has also been replaced at some point in time. The whole, entire assembly has been welded. So were going to have to cut it off to be able to remove it, to get our transmission. Before we cut our H pipe, were going to remove this fork plate. This is only going to be found on a convertible. Youre not going to have this on your coupe or fastback. Once you make your way to the last bolt, youll want to hold the plate its heavier than you think its going to be. Now were ready to cut our exhaust system off. You want to pick a spot thats easy to get to, not only for cutting it, but also for welding or putting a clamp on it later. Now were going to disconnect our H pipe at our headers. Well leave the top bolt in just to support the weight of our H pipe. Well get a good grip on it and remove that bolt, and remove our H pipe. Before we can move on to pulling the drive shaft, we want to hit the drain of the transmission and get as much fluid out as possible. Once we get most of the fluid out, were going to put our plug back in. We dont need to tighten it all the way, just give it one or two turns. To remove our drive shaft, were going to pull the two retainer nuts off the back on each side. Just hold onto the drive shaft and turn them. Push up on the U joint, and pull it out. Next were going to remove the starter. The bottom bolts pretty easy to get to, but the top one well have to use an extension or a swivel of some sort. Headers are going to make it a little bit harder, but you got to get it off though. Were going to hang it down, just got to remove the wire. While were here, well get the two bolts off the transmission separator plate. Now were going to separate the equalizer bar clutch bar linkage, and remove this little cotter pin that holds it onto the bar. I blew the engine in my 2001 XJ Cherokee. I want to replace the motor but the yard motors available are way too expensive for my wallet right now. I have the coil. This is the sound make by a flexplate loosing her bolts. Park. Willys Jeep Parts Willys Restoration Parts from Walcks 4 Wheel Drive. FREE SHIPPING on wiring harnesses, CJ2a, CJ5, Willys Truck other Willys Jeep Parts. Jeep CJ8 Registry Page. Is yours here Note that the 27,792 total figure includes all CJ8s sold overseas. Buy an ARP Flywheel Bolt Kit for your 19651995 Mustang with a V8 Engine and a Manual Transmission from CJ Pony Parts today This ARP flywheel bolt kit comes with six. And well just pry this off. Now were just going to disconnect the spring. Now we can start on removing the transmission from the bell housing. First thing were going to do is take the speedometer cable off. Then were going to pull off our reverse light switch. Our T5 uses a different style switch, so were going to need the wiring, but were not going to need the switch itself. Then were going to remove the four bolts that hold our transmission to our bell housing, two on the bottom, and little two up top. Then were going to work on the bolts for the crossmember. These are usually the most rusted bolts in this job. Itll take a little bit of work to get them off. Once we get that off, were going to leave the bolt in place. Just get the nut off for now. Well do the same thing on the other side. A lot of times, these are so badly rusted theyre just going to break off. Theres nothing wrong with that. Were going to use a new mount and a new crossmember with our T5. Well use our small pry bar to just make sure everything is separated. After getting everything loose back here, your transmissions going to start separating from your bell housing. Put our pry bar in there and kind of push them apart as well. Okay, once we have everything separated, were ready to support our transmission, pull off our crossmember, and remove our 3 speed. Weve got our transmission in place to hold our 3 speed. Any kind of a jack will work, you just want to make sure you support the weight before you take the crossmember out. Now were going to remove the bolts. Since were hanging up on our E brake cable a little bit, were going to take some tension off of it so we can move the cable out of the way. Now that our 3 speeds out of the way, we can see our factory bell housing and fork. The next step is to remove this. There are six bolts holding our bell housing to our engine, two down here, two at the very top, and then two along the side here. Like most jobs, you want to start with the harder bolts to get to, and save the easy ones for last. Were going to remove the throw out bearing and throw that aside, and now were ready to remove our bell housing. Now that weve got the bell out of the way, were going to remove the six bolts that hold the clutch to the flywheel, two here, two on this side, and two on top. The six flywheel bolts can be tough to get off. What we usually recommend is you take two of the clutch bolts you just removed, thread them back in just a couple turns so that theyre in. Now what you want to do is get a pry bar. Well put it between the two bolts. We usually hit the frame, or in our case well hit the header. Thatll lock it in place so the engine doesnt turn as you remove your flywheel bolts. Were going to use our pry bar, and remove our flywheel. Now well take off our original separator plate. Now were going to remove the equalizer bar, since were not going to use it. Now you unbolt it and you slide the bracket over. Youll be able to slide your equalizer bar off of the pivot. Now well disconnect it from the block. Now were going to remove the stud off the side of the block. And now were going to remove the cotter pin that holds the equalizer bar on. Well separate the equalizer bar from the rod and take it out of the car. Now we have everything apart, were going to clean up a little bit in here, and were ready to install our new T5. Chain Link Fence Installation Tension Wire Decks here. This is an important step that you dont want to miss. With a T5, you need to use this rollarized pilot bearing. The factory is going to have a pilot bushing, which we have to remove with the slide hammer, and then install the bearing before we put everything back together. There you can see the difference between your original bushing and the new bearing were going to have to install. Well put a little Anti seize on the bearing. What we want to do is hold it in place, grab a socket about the same diameter as it, and hammer it in. Well install our new separator plate, line it up with the factory dowels, and were ready to install our flywheel. Before we install the flywheel, well put a little bit of Loctite on each of the new flywheel bolts, put the new flywheel up into place. Now well install our new ARP bolts. How To Install Flywheel Bolts Jeep© 2017